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How to Craft a Tablecloth
Wednesday, June 24, 2009

Tablecloths add cover to your table, which can protect it from scratches, dents, etc. To craft a tablecloth you will need materials, finishing sizes, gauge structure, and directions. In view of the facts, we can present to you a few steps so that you can protect your table from damage.

You will need a gauge start at 5 inches diameter or 2 ¾ inches in diameter for the smaller motif clothes. You will need your finishing, which should be around 35 inches times 35. Purchase crocheting thread around 10, and 250 yards of spherical cream. Purchase the number seven crochet hook made of steel.

Once you purchase your materials, you can choose to make the small or large motif. Use your 5 inches in diameter to create 49 larger motifs. To start add eight chain stitches to meet with a slipstitch. Once you form your sphere move to round one and continue through to round eight, until you come to the smaller motif.

To begin stitch five chains to meet with your double crochet and the two chains you created. In your ring, double crochet and chain stitch two rows working up to eleven stitches/doubles and slipstitch into the third chain at the start of your first chain and leave three spaces as you work to round two. Now, add a slipstitch to start another space, chain one stitch, and three single crochets. Once you finish crocheting around the space, add a slipstitch to the first single and the 36 single crochets.

Moving on chain one stitch and work into the back loops and add single crochets in the other stitches. Finish with a slipstitch working it into the starting single crochet. Continue to round four. Chain four stitches into the first double and chain another stitch working it so that it blends with the back loops. The following stitch, add a double and one chain. Repeat your steps working around the slipstitches and to the third chain stitch created at the beginning of your chain. Move ahead to round five. Slipstitch so that it blends into the following space you will create and add a chain stitch working another two single crochets into the surrounding space. Slipstitch so that you meet your first single crochets and moves to the next round.

Now, chain four stitches so that it meets with your first triple crochet. Work the stitches into the back loops and triple crochet stitches so that it combines with the following stitches. You will need to create four and then chain five stitches, skip one, and triple the following five stitches. Repeat and work around your slipstitch at the crown of your starting chain. At this time, you should have grouped twelve of the five triples as you work to the crown.

Continue add a chain stitch it toward your back loops. Single crochet up to the five triple crochets you will create. In the five chain spaces thereafter you will need to have created four singles, chains, and four singles again before repeating your steps, working about the slipstitch the created at the beginning single. Continue to create your first motif, which is the larger part and then slipstitch so that you meet with the following two stitches. Chain stitch into the single crochet that starts the following two stitches and then chain five stitches working in your double, four chains, and another double crochet within the four chains at the loop. Chain two stitches and slipstitch to meet your loop that starts your motif, Chain two stitches within the identical four chain loops on the succeeding motif. Chain five stitches and skip up to five stitches on the beginning motif. Repeat your steps as you did when creating the initial motif. Continue up the ladder by creating your tablecloth. Now you are ready to make your smaller motif and complete your tablecloth.

To begin create 36 motifs and join them into the facing of the larger motif at the between lines. Chain eight stitches, add a slipstitch, and begin moving your starting ring to repeat rounds when creating your larger motif, i.e. rounds one through three. Next, chain stitch and work into the back loops. Create four single crochets, while single crocheting into the four, and add six chain stitches to join a single and the larger motif. Add another six chains and skip one, make a single and work it into the following single. Chain 4 and another single working until it blends into four chain loops not joined with the larger motif.

Chain four stitches and skip one single. Repeat your steps, working about the slipstitch that you created in your initial single. Now, complete your tablecloth by fastening it.
posted by neptunus @ 8:30 AM   0 comments
How to Craft a Smock

Smocks are fun; rather making the bodice of a porcelain dress is an adventure that leads to joy. To get started however you will need to consider design.

How to choose design your smock:
In the first row, you will need to knit stitch your design into the 799 DMC. The stitching process is the cable stitches, which you knit to produce patterns that resemble twisted ropes.

The second one and a quarter line requires the baby waves stitched over another ½ line followed by another 1 ¾ baby waves over another ½ line, which should form the shape of a diamond with an additional line at 1 ¼. The following line should be two ½-baby waves over another ½ line and continue to the next line at three ¼-baby waves moving to the other side at ½ line into another diamond shape and a line at 2 3/4. Finish with a 4-line cable stitch.

Next, you will collect the top of your dress to the seams of the shoulder at the back and front yokes and complete the seams by crisscross stitching and pressing the bodice at the back and on the folded line. If you want easy attachment of your pattern to the collar, you will need to trim the piping. Next, begin sewing your piping to the other side of the collars and a the untreated edges.

TIP: Use greaseproof paper and place it beneath the collars to continue stitching with ease.

Once the piping and the collars are collected at the area of your facing collar, attach side by side to the right and use stitch pips to finish the following lines. Next, cut the seams and then trim around the collars. Press after you turn your seams to the right. You want to mark the front center yoke and make a line, marking it so that it aligns with the back of your bodice. Pin your collars so that it is placed with the neck and join with the front center. Once you place your area, begin sewing about the garment’s edge and around the neck toward the center of the back whilst leaving the facing liberal.

Continue:
Bring the facing on to the other side and join it so that it collects with the seams of the shoulders and the front center. Now stitch about the garment’s edge and around the neck the same as you did on the prior stitch. Cut, and press after you turn your garment on the right angle. Now, stitch pip so as to, cross the right region and the yoke at the front on your seam lines. The facing should be liberal. The front smock area is now ready for you to complete.

To complete the smock you will need materials. You will need 28 inches of light tone and plain-woven soft, smooth fabric made up of linen or cotton. You will need to choose a small pip, a few long, narrow buttons, size 50 cotton thread broder, embroidery thread, and so on. Once you have your materials make your pattern and cut two frontal yokes, dual fold yokes for the back, sleeves, bands, collars, (4) rear waistline, band for leg, and 1 front and back segment for pant fold. Next, use starch and spray your fabric. To attach your pips use the zipper or pip foot.

You will need to finish your smock starting with your plate, front smock section and fitting the yoke at the front. Once the yoke is fitted you can join yokes and keep the pips near the first row, you will need to knit stitch your design into the 799 DMC at this time and finish your design.
posted by neptunus @ 8:30 AM   0 comments
How to Craft a Lively Scrapbook

Crafting a lively scrapbook is a fun task, and can be accomplished with minimal supplies and cash. Scrapbooks are a storybook combined with pictures, embellishments, documents, and more. Each step you take to living up your scrapbook will tell an amazing story to the audience enjoying your creation. The photos say a thousand words alone, yet if you add background, stationary, patterns, lettering, titles, captions, stickers, etc, you can living it up even more to present an outstanding story.

Penmanship is important. If you need help with penmanship, you may want to create your own letters from scraps, such as patterns or stationary. When you create a scrapbook, you want compelling messages, lettering, journals, pictures, and more. You will need a genealogy to start telling the story of your family and their history. Next, you will need pens, paper, letterheads, stickers, etc, to finish your story. You will find archival pens in a variety of styles, colors, etc.

Pens available to create lively scrapbooks include permanent markers/pens, waterproof, non-toxic, fade-resistance, non-bleeding, quick dry, and pigment ink. Black, felt-tip pens are great also, yet you want to be careful not to apply too much pressure when writing. You want to avoid the acid-based pens, markers, etc. Search for the CK OK and P.A.T. approved pens in the craft stores.

How choose pens for writing lettering and journals:
If you choose, the felt-pens make sure that you understand the point size. The sizes range from .005 to .08-mm, depending on the style.

If you want to invent a fancy scrapbook check out the line of inscription pens. The pens are designed to handle captions, titles, etc. The pen tips have broad, flat tips and when used at a “45-degree” slant you can create beautiful letters. Practice first before using the pen if you are not use to calligraphy styles.

When creating borders, captions, or titles for your scrapbook you can use the Zig writers also. The pens were designed by expert crafters, or manufacturers that specialize in scrap booking. You will find the “Zig Memory” Systems, etc. “EK Success” is the creators of these pens, which include the Zig Writers, Calligraphy, scroll tips, fine tips, dense markers, brush pens, and the bullet pens. You have a selection of colors to choose from.

Additional pens include the chisel, colored pens, pencils, and the goof-proof rollers, which are gel based. Chisel comes in a variety of sizes, colors, etc, and will offer you versatile lettering. Scroll is designed to the handle sophisticated letters. The pen is called “Scroll and Brush. If you are familiar with computer fonts, perhaps the closest font to the scroll pens is the CASTELLAR font.

In addition to pens, you can purchase the craft paint pens. You will find a variety of colors and pen-tip sizes are craft stores, online, stationary stores, and more. The gel-based pens are similar to paint pens. In the line of pens, you will find lightning, milky, and more. The pens are ideal for writing journals.

Color pens enable you to color in areas of your scrapbook to produce a nice looking design. You can use the color pens also to draw your own pictures and more. Colored pencils are ideal for designing titles, lettering, captions, etc. The pencils come in a variety of colors. Some of the popular craft brands include Berol Prsima, and the Zig brands.

TIP: When using paint pens make sure that you apply adequate pressure without over doing it. To create letters, i.e. fancy letters large or small use the double “fine n’ chisels.
posted by neptunus @ 8:29 AM   0 comments
How to Craft a Garden Scrapbook

Garden scrapbooks can present a natural feeling when the audience is reading your storybook. Flowers are one of the popular natural-based elements that many people cherish. You can store flowers in a scrapbook to craft a garden style creation. To start you will need a dried flower. Compress the flower placing it into your scrapbook pocket, such as the memorabilia. Next, glue, tape, etc, the flower so that it is sticking on the page securely. You may have seen flowers preserved in bibles. The process in scrapbooks is similar, only you want to stick the flowers so that it does not fall out.

How to craft flowers for scrap booking:
You can use corsages, bouquets, or the colored part of the flower to craft your garden scrapbook. The compressed and dried flowers should be in a straight line, added to your scrapbook page, and smoothly seated near your photographs.

Your dry flowers and compressed flowers should be laminated. Use Xyron, or any acid-free product to laminate your flowers.

During the fall is the best time to pluck materials to make up a garden scrapbook. As you make up your garden scrapbook consider title page, captions, journal, lettering, photos, plant species, headings and more.


If you are adding fall leaves to your scrapbook, you may want to visit a copy shop. You will need to place the leaves in a sealed container when transferring the leaves. The leaves with depreciate over time if you fail to follow instructions. You can add the leaves at your title page to start your garden scrapbook.

If you are making up a scrapbook to present your garden, snap a few pictures and make up a blueprint. The blueprint should include each detail of your garden. Following, you can add a journal to let your friends and family know how you invented your garden.

When to take photos:
Spring, summer, winter, and fall is the best time to take photos of your garden. Each season provides you a variety of colors, shades, texture, blooms, etc. Once you snap the shots add them to your garden scrapbook.

If you want to get created you can cut, paste, and add extras to your scrapbook, i.e. cut magazine clips based on your garden theme and add them to your scrapbook. Also, you can add tips beside your pictures to help your family and friend learn.

During the seasons, you want to document your gardens activities as well as your own to create a genealogy, and history of your scrapbook. Record detail specifics to help your audience learn from your efforts. During the summer record, the blooms so that when winter comes you can look back on your success. When the blooms start to grow, you may want to snap photos so that you can add to your scrapbook. Try crafting your scrapbook in a chronological order so that your book tells the story you want to portray to the audience.

Some people add special rocks to their scrapbook. If you decide to add, rocks try to find the small, flat rocks. The thicker, bulk rocks will only interrupt your scrapbook.

Flowers are beautiful inside scrapbooks. The flowers that set off garden scrapbooks include roses of all colors, daffodils, tulips, crocuses, and so on. Still, if you add flowers to your scrapbook you want to use petals that harmonize with your theme. For instance, if you are crafting a summer page, then use colorful flower copies. If you are crafting a fall theme, then use the flowers that flow in harmony with your theme.
posted by neptunus @ 8:29 AM   0 comments
How to Craft a Bonnet

To create a porcelain doll bonnet, first determine the size of your doll head. Once you have the size you will need materials. You can use wire to mould your bonnet if it is less than 10 inches. You can use any type of material you choose to make your bonnet, including batiste.

The materials you will need are 6 inches of fabric (white), such as the batiste. You will need a couple of edge laces, say around 2 ½ yards and ½ inches of lace edge. Gather 36 inches of smooth craft wire. You will need 28 inches of dual side rayon fabric, such as satin ribbons and a set of wire cutters, and pliers with a long muzzle. Once you gather your materials, you can start your methods in creating your bonnet.

You will need art paper to create your patterns. Once you finish you will carve two sou’ westers: (i.e. bonnets) you should have two rows of lace, which one is on top and the other. Once you have your patterns make a wavy edge forming the scallop near the lace edge and continue to the middle of your bonnet. Stitch together the right side and form a straight-line stitch to lace the edges in order and to connect to the edges of the neck and the edges at the top. To show lace when the bonnet is turned, the lace should jut out over your seams at the finish of your hat.

Now, use your lining and place it over your sou’ wester and begin stitching it collectively over the prior stitch lines to the edges of the neck and edge of the crown. Leave open your ends, turn your bonnet at the inner recesses, and out so that the lace shows at the crown edges and neck, and then press.

Use your pattern and stitch along the lines. You want to create a cover for the wire. Next, sew one more edge of lace underneath the hat on the left side and continue to the right. Stitch in the direction of your line and cover near the edges of your crown. Stitch your wavy lines at the crown into the lace and continue to the outer edges.

Now you will need to cut the ends of your hat. Use your wire cutters and cut along the lines of your wire so that it fits 11 inches of the edges of your crown. The last edge of your crown will need 8 ½ inches of wire. The center should be 7 ½ inches and the edges of the neck should be 7 inches. About ¼ inch, curve the ends of your wire. Next, weave your wire into the covers evenly at one finish of your untreated edges. Bend the wire ¼ inch with your pliers and another quarter over until the wire is secured. Pull up your fabric at the edges of the crown, including the other crown edge and add your wire to the center and at the edges of the neck wire.

The wire will extend to the other finish area, which you will need to trim the curved ends once you check to make sure that the area is balance. You want to avoid allowing the wire to ride to the cover. Next, bend the wires ¼ inch twice and secure your ends. You want to even your decorative fabric edgings, which once your bonnet is completed you can trim your ribbon, creating dual 14 inch lengthwise cuts and fix your ribbon to the side of the hat. If you would like additional designs, such as the rose-shaped badge (Rosette) you will need to use rose grubs and embroider them onto the ribbons.
posted by neptunus @ 8:29 AM   0 comments
How to choose Craft Paper for Scrapbooks
Monday, June 22, 2009

Now that you have your pen, glue, protectors, etc, you will need to choose paper for your scrapbook. Craft paper with seals of approval is ideal when creating scrapbooks. Craft paper includes the CK OK products. Paper designed for photocopying, journals, or albums are the choice papers. The paper that most crafters use is the pH that does not go over 8.0. The ideal level is 6.5 and/or 7.5. Un-buffered paper is the choice for many crafters, yet some recommend buffer paper with alkaline base. Paper should have an acid-base; therefore look for the lignin-free products. Paper without dyes, and are colorfast are choice products also. P.A.T. approved paper is the Photo Activity Test products, which is ideal for scrapbooks.

The paper outlined is ideal for photos. If you intend to add extras, consider pH levels no higher than 7.5 also. Buffer paper should have a very low content of zinc, magnesium, and calcium carbonates. Use the lignin-free and colorfast papers that do not dye as well.

Paper includes the basic of decorative designs. Pattern is a type of paper that has designs that replicate throughout the page. You can find conservative bold, tasteful designs, funky stuff, and so on. You can also purchase matching stickers to setoff your scrapbook.

When you create pattern scrapbooks keep in mind you are creating a book that brings your past to the future. You are creating a memo that tells a person about your past. In view of the fact, when choosing pattern paper try out the general patterns. If you choose extreme patterns, it will only rob viewers of seeing what you crafted to promote in the first place.

How to choose patterns:
“General pattern paper” has a variety of designs, including floral, stripes, and dots. You can choose the general patterns if you want variety. General papers are ideal for those who are searching for versatile results as well.

If you are designing holiday decors use the general patters with minuscule red dots. The dots will blend well with the holidays design, such as those during Christmas.

Once you choose your paper, you can craft some ideas, such as using your patterns to fit in with small and large photos or embellishments. Paper mounts may include single mounts. You can use die cut layers to shape.

How to choose die cuts-
Die cuts for shaping may include small and large-scale patterns. You can also use scraps, punch holes in the patterns to create borders. Patchwork is also made up of scrap patterns.

How to pierce:
Paper piercing is an adventure. To finish the process you merely create layers, such as the matching templates, trace, cut, and join the layers together. Use solid patterns along with general scraps to finish the process.

You can also use scraps from your patterns to create letters. Of course, you can mark your pages, including dates, names, locations, etc, with craft pens, yet the letters you create with patterns will enhance your scrapbook. Try using the patterns to create a title page.

Use patterns also to create letter headings for journals, captions, title page, and so on. If you want to produce a basic layout, use two different patterns. The first pattern should mount your photos while the other is used as a background setting. You can add matching stickers to enhance your new decorative scrapbook pages.

As I said, once you choose your paper search for the designs that match your scrapbook layout. Patterns include the framed designs. In fact, the framed designs can off set your photos dramatically, especially if you choose frames that set off your photos. For instance, if you have a photo of your child playing soccer, why not choose the framed patterns with soccer as the title in the lower box, and soccer balls around the frame.
posted by neptunus @ 3:56 AM   0 comments
How to Choose Craft Materials for Scrapbooks How to choose adhesives

Adhesives are important to keep your scrapbook materials together. Buying the correct adhesives is just as important to keep your photos safe. Scrap bookers want to adhere to the “CK OK” seals when purchasing adhesives. Some people use rubber cement to create scrapbooks, yet recent studies has shown that the material will damage photos. You can choose glues, paste, or tape to create your scrapbook, which is your choice. The best materials however are provided to you in this article.

How to choose adhesives:
Adhesives include P.A.T. (Photo Activity Test) materials. P.A.T. has tested the adhesives to make sure that it will not damage your scrapbook. Adhesives include acrylic based or starched based products, which are safe keeps. Reversible adhesives, white and/or colorless, odor free, chemical additives, migratory, non-toxic, neutralized pH sever or higher, etc are safe keep adhesives to create scrapbooks.

Any glue you purchase should not run, relax, or have any odors once it dries. It should not transfer either. Moreover, the glue should not distort, color, or damage your photos.

TIP: Use heavy paper when crafting your scrapbook.

In craft stores, you will find a selection of glues, including sticks, bottle liquids, glue pens, etc. You can test the products to see which are best suited for your scrapbook process. The glue sticks are ideal if you want to produce a scrapbook with less the muddle. For smaller projects, you may want to use the pens. You will need to apply enough force to stick your smaller objects. Use the bottled liquid glue to stick die cuts, fragments, or scraps.

If you want to embellish, you can use the two-way pens. When the pens are moist it provides are stern adhesive, yet you can remove your scraps, papers, photos, etc, at your convenience.

Scotch tape is great to use as adhesives. Tape is easier to use than glues. When choosing tape however makes sure, you have a tape roller. Tape will provide you a reversal along with quick processing. Reversible tape includes the double tape also. To use tapes merely consign the scotch tape or double tape on your pages. On the opposite side, stick your embellishments, documents, photos, etc.

Glue and tape is cheaper than the Xyron machines. The machines will make up quality scrapbooks. The machines are ideal if you plan to create multi-scrapbook projects. You can use the machine as a laminator. In addition, you can make stickers with the Xyron machines

In addition to the machines, glues, tapes, etc, you may want to invest in photo splits and precut glue, paste, cement, etc.

How to use splitters:
To use photo splits you can drag out your tabs. Once you tug out your tab(s) submit them to your scrapbook page. You will need to skin, or unpeel the layers at the top.

Once you decide which adhesives you want to use you will need to consider ink. In the meantime, the glues should not have acids incorporated into its substance. In addition, the adhesives should be lignin-free.

Scrapbooks are a way to bring your family together. Down through the years you can review your scrapbooks to recall lost memories, or to spark fragmented memories, bringing them to a full picture. To craft your scrapbook however, you want to “Keep Safe” in mind. Keep Safe means to purchase materials that protect your certificates, photos, letters, news clippings, and related embellishments.

As I said, once you purchase your glues you want to consider ink. Ink is your writing tool that helps you to add journals, storybooks, records, names, dates, etc.
posted by neptunus @ 3:56 AM   0 comments
How to Choose Craft Ink for Scrapbooks How to choose pens and protectors

Once you gather your glue, paper, photos, embellishments, etc, you will need to consider ink to mark your scrapbook. Ink is important to label photos and embellishments, including adding dates, names, locations, etc. While the marketplace sells a variety of pens, it is important to know the craft types that will give you a lasting memo.

How to choose ink:
Black felt-tip pens are sufficed to handle craft scrapbook projects. Use the pen to label, mark, or write journals. If you intend to mark the back of your photos, use the grease and/or waxy pens. One of the best pens to use is the Photo Marker. The pen is has a fine tip and is a black permanent marker. The pen however allows you to use cloth to remove any writing from the back of your photos. You may want to learn about the guidelines for “CK OK pens.” The pens are tested and approved by Craft experts.

Pens include the light fast and the fade resistance pens. Waterproof, odorless, non-toxic, etc, are ideal pens for scrapbook projects. The pens should not present any odor once the ink has dried. In addition, the pen should be highly resistant to changes, i.e. it should be a permanent swift drying pen. You want to look for the pens that do not bleed, as well as for the pens that do not migrate. In short, look for craft pens with the seal “P.A.T.” (Photo Activity Test)

Once you choose your pens, you will need protectors. Protectors should be PVC integrated. In short, you will need odorless protectors. Protectors will shield your scrapbook once it is complete from acids, or other damaging elements.

How to choose protectors:
Protectors include the complete page covers. The protectors will help you to organize your photos while protecting them from slips. You can add memos while using protectors. Page protectors are another type of covering for your scrapbook. In short, page protectors are sheets of plastic. You can purchase the top-loaders, or side-loaders. You can use the sheets, since it has holes to make up binders as well. The economical page protectors include the lightweight. The lightweight protectors are thinner than the medium and heavy protectors are.

How to choose plastics:
To choose plastics consider enclosures, sheets, and encapsulation. The plastic should be made up of polyethylene, polypropylene, and/or polyester. Vinyl should not be used to protect your photos. You will need colorless, clear plastic protectors combined with a P.A.T., seal. The plastic should be odorless and untreated. You want quality plastic that does not include plasticizers. The surface should have coating, yet the sides should not. If you want to protect your scrapbooks, i.e. photos, embellishments use the UV inhibitors. Ultimately, you can use the sheets, which absorbs.

The non-glare or clear plastics should be considered when purchasing protectors. Non-glare will reduce glares shining on your pages with its matte alike elements. The clear is ok, yet unlike the non-glare, you do not get the luxury of reducing smudging, or fingerprints. To learn more about the latest pens and protectors go online where you will find a variety of products available to you. Do not forget to search for the seals.

Another type of protector is the panoramic pages. Page is great if you want to view four-sides of your spreads. The protector is great for creating vacation scrapbooks. Once you gather your pens and protectors, you want to move onto paper. The cardstocks is ideal for designing quality scrapbooks that will last a long time.
posted by neptunus @ 3:55 AM   0 comments
Grandma Craft Tips How to understand crochet basics

To get started we can begin with crochet abbreviations to help you relate to the process. Crochet experts use the terms beg (Beginning) bet (Between), bk lp (Back loop) ch (chain), ch-(previous chain), cont (Continue), dc (double crochet), dec (decreasing), dtr (double/triple crochet), ft lp (Front loop), hdc (half-double crochet), inc (Increasing), lp (loops), and so on.

Those who crochet must learn how to handle the hook, work jointly, chain stitch, slip knot, and crochet a single row.

How to hook:
To hold your hook you would start with a pencil. The hook may have a resting finger, which you can locate your thumbs to gain control.

How to work in union:
Once you have a hold on your hook, weave the thread/yarn so that your, left fingers have control, and can be used to apply pressure. Once you begin your project (Work), you want to use your thumb and the center left finger to press the stitches.

How to slip knot:
You want to form a shape-like pretzel by looping your yarn about, allow the loose ends to drop, fallen behind your loop. Pull the ends of your yarn without pulling too tight.

How to chain stitch:
On your hook position a slipknot and use your hands, i.e. center left finger and the thumb to hold the yarn in place. Wrap your yarn first up and then over your hook starting at the back and moving to the front. You will need to familiarize your self with this procedure, since it is a basic crocheting technique known as “Yarn over Yo.”

Now pull the yearn using your hook bringing it through the lp (loop). When you yarn over Yo and combine it with lp, it forms a ch. (Chain)

Continue until you have the acceptable chain and continue motion on even strokes and until the stitches that form a chain and each stitch (st(s) are even. Near your work area, hold your chain and continue twisting whilst avoiding counting the loops on your hook.

How to crochet a single line:
Beneath your crown loops insert your hook at the second chain away from your hook and begin Yarn over Yo crocheting. You should continue to stitch between the two loops. Continue the yarn over process and pull your yarn through the chain to it meets two loops on your hook. Continue the Yo process again and pull the yarn through the other two loops.

Once you complete your hook, work, slipknots, chain stitch, single line, etc, you will need to learn how to double crochet, half-double, triple; slip stitch, back loop, popcorn stitch, etc. Behind the steps is the process of working back loops, chain space, stitches between, and about the post.

How to double stitch:
To double crochet you will need to perform the yarn over Yo steps and then insert your hook into the third chain away from the Yo and hook. Next, pull your yarn so that it goes through your chain and three loops at the hook. Continue the Yarn over steps and pull the yarn through the next two loops. Again, continue the Yarn over and pull the yarn through the remaining two loops.

How to half double:
Conduct the yarn over steps and insert your hook so that it goes into the second chain away from your hook. Yarn over and string your yarn through the third loops.

How to triple crochet:
Yarn over a couple of times and insert your hook so that it goes into the fourth chain away from the hook. Yarn over and stretch your yarn through the chain and the fourth loop at your hook. Yarn over, stretch the yarn through the second loops at the hook, and finish your three time steps.
posted by neptunus @ 3:55 AM   0 comments
Finishing the Evening News in Craft How to complete your Afghan in the Evening News

To complete your Afghan you will need to learn steps, such as chain loop stitching, clusters, cross double stitching, cross-batch, and the lines joining angles spike stitching. Of course you will need to learn more about Fantail stitching, knot stitching, popcorn, puff, shell, V stitching, zigzag lozenge stitching, sample square, bordering, assembling, and more to complete your Afghan.

To get your started we can consider chain loop stitching. To chain loop stitch avoid starting your square with the loop stitch. Instead, in row one chain stitch six lines, skip one stitch, and single crochet in the following stitch, throughout, i.e. across, and then turn. In row two chain stitch four rows, double crochet in your following chain, and continue across, finishing with a turn and proceeding to the next row. Now, chain stitch and add a single crochet in your six chain loops and move to chain one throughout until the finish and complete with a double crochet in the initial, i.e. the first chain of your preceding row.

Now you are ready to move onto collecting, or clusters. In the cluster steps, you start with your preceding loop, keeping it on each stitch on your crochet hook. Finish by working one stitch in the following stitches to a favorable level and “Yarn over Yo” throughout the loops on your crochet hook, finishing your stitch with a chain stitch.

How to cross double crochet stitch:
Next, you want to learn how to cross double crochet stitch. You will need to start with two multiples, which creates a base of two. Start with three chain stitches; skip one stitch and double crochet in the following stitch. Skip another stitch and repeat across, and to the finish with another double crochet in the final stitch.

Use a 7-multiple to crossbatch, plus four to add three bases to your Afghan. In row, one skip two chain stitches and double crochet two in the following chain, skipping another three chain stitches and single crochet into the following four chain stitches, skip three chains, and single crochet the final chain stitch, and then turn.

The lines joining angles-spike stitching, is known to crochet experts as “Diagonal Spike Stitch.” The experts will use four, plus two multiples to create dual bases. To begin the steps the expert will start in the first row, skipping three chain stitches followed by double crochet in all of the three chain stitches, skipping the following chain, and Yarn over Yo stitch followed by inserting the hook in the matching chain stitch as that of the first, preceding double crochet. Moving along the expert double crochets three groups and Yarn over Yo to pull up the loops. The loops are loose at this time and finished with a stitch, i.e. a double crochet spike stitch and repeats the steps across, and to the finish with a double crochet in the final chain made and then turns.

Continuing the diagonal spike-stitch in the second row by chaining three, stitches for the beginning double crochet and continue to the next step. Skip one stitch, double crochet again in all of your following three stitches, skip another stitch, spike stitch in the following stitch, and repeat the steps across, at the finish, and with a double crochet in your crown turning chain, and then turn, repeat the steps outlined in row two to complete your pattern.

You are almost finished, yet you will need to learn how to knot stitch, popcorn stitch, shell and puff stitch, and so forth.
posted by neptunus @ 3:53 AM   0 comments
Crafting the Essentials in Scrap Booking How to learn craft terms for scrap booking
Friday, June 19, 2009

Terms are important in life, including when crafting scrapbooks. When you visit craft stores it is great to know a few terms so that the sale clerks will think you are an expert. In addition, having a basic line of terms will help you find your way, rather than getting lost when you hear the clerks talk foreign craft lingo. To get started we can consider acid.

How to understand craft and scrapbook terms:
Acid-free products are the key to creating and preserving your scrapbook. You want to request materials that do not have acid-based chemical reactive content. The Ph level should be around seven or even higher, to produce a safe keep scrapbook. The products should not have polyvinyl chlorides; therefore look for PVC-Free materials. Instead, look for materials made of polyester, polyethylene, or polypropylene. Lignin-Free materials will prevent your newspapers, or clippings from yellowing. Lignin is acid based. In addition, you want to learn steps to avoid acidy contents touching your scrapbook. You should wash your hands prior to touching your scrapbook, and request that anyone touching your scrapbook wash their hands beforehand.

Archival is a common term in crafts, since many scrapbooks are made up as archrivals. Archival is the process of protecting your scrapbook from fading, yellowing, or deteriorating. Buffer paper is recommended for crafting scrapbooks. Buffer paper will protect your book from defused acids, and acid migrating from damaging your papers and photos. To find buffer paper suitable for scrapbook crafting, look for paper with the label “Photo Activity Test,” approved or P.A.T., which is approved by ANSI. (American National Standards Institute)

If you plan to glue your photos and news clippings, or other materials in your scrapbook, keep in mind that reversible adhesive is optional. The contents will allow you to remove the photos later and re-locate them in necessary.

“CK OK,” is the “Seal of Approval” that provides you a safe keep in scrap booking. If the materials you purchase do not have this seal, leave it alone.

Scrapbook crafting entails cropping, workshop, page exchange, produce swap, scrapbook club, layout, “Pass the chocolate,” mounting, double mount, heading, embellishment, them, title page, page, and memorabilia.”

How to crop:
Cropping can be done with PhotoShop otherwise, you will need scissors. The process requires that you trim the photos to fit your book. Cropping also entails collecting, allocating ideas, and putting the parts in order so that it tells a story. Workshop is the process of working together with other scrap bookers to come up with ideas. You can use PhotoShop to devise a scheme.

Page exchanging is similar to workshop, only you bring a page with you and work with others to share ideas and to craft a page. Product swapping is the process of getting rid of old craft materials, such as scissors, papers, etc, and swapping with your friends to gain new materials. You can create a scrapbook club from here, which swapping can occur and you and your friends can “pass the chocolate.”

How to layout your scrapbook:
In your club, you will hear the term layout. The term is used to define page grouping. Page grouping is the process of collecting your pages and inserting them alongside the joined group, using the same theme. You can devise your own theme, such as “My Scrapbook of Memories.”

Once you adhesive your photos on a single sheet of paper you are conducting the process of mounting. Double mount is comparable to Layer Mattes. The process includes adhesive two cuts of paper, sticking them together with the photos resting on top of the papers.


Embellishment is the terms used to define die-cuts, stickers, or related materials that make up a page in your scrapbook. The header is your title page. Title page is the start of making your scrapbook. For instance, “Jane Does Scrapbook.” The theme will define your overall ideas behind your scrapbook. Page is the process of making up non-photographic materials, such as journal, embellishments, etc decorated around your photos. Finally, memorabilia is adding souvenirs, official documents, artwork, or related documents to your scrapbook.
posted by neptunus @ 7:46 PM   0 comments
Craft Stitching Porcelain Doll Sleeves How to stitch porcelain doll sleeves

Once you have begun making your dress, you want to stitch your porcelain doll sleeves. To get started, affix the lace, meeting it with the edges of the sleeves and crisscross. Press once you finish. Next, gather the dual rows of your stitch and continue about the crown of the sleeve until it fits into the right armhole, coming together, pull the collected fit up, and stitch them collectively whilst keeping your face liberated. Do the same to complete the opposite sleeve.

Starting at the right sleeve joint with the bodice, sew the seams of the underarm from the edges of your sleeve and from side to side seams of the upper region of the dress. Now begin stitching the seams at the side of your bodice so that it faces jointly and moves to face a different direction within, covering the side facing seams. You may need to cut to fit the areas around the seams of the armholes, including the facing holes. Change directions, turning in the hems about the facing armhole, match the shoulders as well as the seams at the side, and then “slip” suture the facing in the region of the armholes, moving in the opposite direction as you stitch. Use the elastic hat and fasten it to the interior region to create the starting legs of your underclothing. You may need to cut to fit, yet add glue before you begin cutting.

Now you have completed your sleeves for your porcelain doll. Once you finish your sleeves, you may want to design and elegant skirt to fit your doll, as well as an apron. To get started with your skirt finish your patterns at the untreated edges, and at the seams of the back using the crisscross stitching method. Next, sew the seams at the back from the dot and to the hems. Line up dual lines and gather your stitches about the crown of your skirt. Fold the back seams and permit to the left side on mutual sides of your seams at the back.

The bodice and front middle of your skirt should come together, as well as the fold lines at the back of the upper region of your dress. Extend to the opening at the back of your skirt and keep the facing bodice liberated. Collect your thread by pulling up and extend to fit the skirt connecting it to the bodice and distributing the collected sections uniformly. Next, trim or shape the seams and fold an upward hem on the facing upper region of your dress so that it corresponds with the seams at the side of your bodice. Use the “slip stitch” method and stitch the seams along the facing so that it connects with the bodice and the skirt.

Now you are ready to dress your doll. As you put the dress on the doll note any areas that may need length added, and mark the seam lines. Finish the dress at the untreated edges of your hem and crisscross. Next, turn the width to needed size and hem while using the slip suture method to fit the skirt. You can make buttonholes next. To start hand sow or machine stitch your buttons after adding glue to the fabric to hold it together. Use a pin to make your buttonholes. Allow the glue to dry and then cut the region, using craft scissors. The buttons or press “000 studs” can be used and sown at the back of your skirt.

You are now ready to create an apron to fit your porcelain doll dress.
posted by neptunus @ 7:46 PM   0 comments
Choosing Batting Quilt Fibers for Craft How to choose batting fibers

Quilts include the crib sizes, twin, and full, double fit, queen, and king. The standard crib fit is around 45-inches time’s 60. Twin fits are 72 x 90, full and the double are 81 x 96, queen fits are 90 x 108, and the king fits are around 120 x 120.

To choose your materials you must consider batting quilt fibers. Once you choose your batting make sure that, you unfold the cotton material and let it set a couple of days before you start crafting. The batting will relax and inflate. You want to space your batting closely to avoid bunching also when crafting your quilt. Some materials require pre-washes before you can use the fabric. Read your labels.

You have options in battings, including the traditional, which is often made of cotton and the polyesters. The blends of polyester and cotton will shrink sometimes. To stitch the cotton you will need to create intervals of larger stitches, yet if you combine polyester with your cotton, you can minimize the stitches.

The line of battings, include polyester, silk, wool, etc as well. If you choose the polyester, you can create a non-shrinking quilt with intervals of larger stitches. In addition, you can create intervals of wider expansions, which you can craft your quick at a speedier pace. Polyester is the choice of battings, since crafters can design a quick, machine washable, and non-shrinking quilt. As well, the crafter can design a thinner quilt verses the thicker, since polyester is a batting made of “high loft.”

My favorite is silk, yet if you are creating a traditional style quilt, the silk may not be suitable. You can still make a quilt of silk, yet you will pay top-dollar and spend a length of undesired time to finish your project. In fact, most crafters do not recommend silk for creating quilts.

Wool has migrating fibers, yet you can sew through the material with ease. You will need to space closely when needling. The wool over time will loose its fibers however. Wool will also fuzz. You can use lightweight materials, or cloths to prevent fuzziness, as well as to prevent fiber loss. Wool is not suitable for machine wash; rather you should take your quilt to a professional cleaner, or wash it by hand and allow it to air dry.

Now choose your style:
If you want the antique or traditional quilt, you will need to use the “low loft” material. The quilts include the Fairfield, which is 100% bleached cotton, the poly-filled cottons, which is 80 % cotton; the “Mountain Mist/Blue Ribbon Stearns” are 100% cotton as well. You can also choose the 100% polyester, Morning Glory, or the Glory BEE I, which is also 100% polyester. Many other styles and varieties are available.

Once you decide which fibers, or fabrics you want to craft your quilt you can then consider your backing. You can purchase yards of backing. The backing today makes it easy to fill in the length and width of your quilt. Ultimately, if you choose backings that come up short or longer you can stitch a couple of pieces together to even your quilt. Still, you want to make sure that the backings work in harmony with your fabrics, or fibers.

Ultimately, if you want to spend time making a quilt you can choose blocks and patches. The pieces of material were frequently used by grandmas, or women of traditional days. The quilts are often sturdier than the modern quilts, yet you can still craft a strong quilt today.
posted by neptunus @ 7:45 PM   0 comments
Assembling the Top Craft

Wall hangers are easy to create. The minute size quilts once created will make a nice gift and/or decoration for your home.

Once you have your parts together, as well as have your tools you can get started making a wall hanger. If you are new to quilting, do not worry since the hanger we are making is one of the easier groups of craft to create.

Do not forget to get your rotary cutters on hand, since throughout your quilting project you will need to cut ¼-inch allowances for your seams. Now, assuming you have your green, tan, blue, yellow, and peach print in order we can get started making your top section of the quilt.

Briefly, I will go over the sections to help you prepare. You should have two, 2 ½ x 19 ½ inches of upper and lower borders in the green prints. You should have another two borders in green at the size of 2 ½ x 27 ½ inches. You should have the value of 36 for your D Square and the size at 1 ½ x 1 ½ inches. Tan print has six parts, i.e. A-strip, B piece, C-Strip, D-E square, and F-strip. Blue only has one part, while yellow has three and peach has one. The yellow is C-strip, D-square, and the last value of four is the cornerstone. C values eighteen, and measures at 1 ½ x 1 ½ inches, while D values 12 and measures at 2 ½ x 2 ½ inches; F is the peach strip, Peach, which values four and its gauge is 1 ½ x 3 ½ inches. Peach has the G-strip, which values four and measures at 2 ½ x 5 ½ inches. The rust prints include the value of six, which makes up the sashing #1 vertical at measures to 1 ½ x 13 ½ inches. The second sashing creates three and measures to 1 ½ x 21 ½ inches, while the last H strip values four and measures at 1 ½ x 7 ½ inches.

You will need to cut these pieces of your quilt out. Use the guide above to achieve a precise cut. Now you can crown your quilt. Start by creating a row and a block. Use your block, row, and begin stitching your D-Blue Square to attach to the A-Tan narrow pieces. (Strips)

Continue to the next color arrangement to complete the second block. Use the D-Yellow Square in the second block and create a couple of narrow pieces per color arrangement.

Now stitch two pieces of the tan print together to create a starting row two and in the first block. Use Tan B, a couple of Blue Cs, a Yellow C and overturn so that the yellow/blue has a gateway through the color arrangement at the second block. You want to create double narrow pieces.

In the third row, create a couple more rows and arrange the colors according in the blocks. In the fourth row, create another two rows so that you have a nine pattern in your color arrangement, which should extend crosswise. Alternating, add stitches to the blocks (2) and make your center by creating #2 sashing narrow pieces equaling three. Now press your fabric. Use an iron without ironing, rather pressing as you move along.

You are ready for your borders. Starting with the #2 border, stitch the narrow pieces so that it moves left to right, and to the sides at the right of your quilt, stitching toward the middle. Add 2 ½ x 2 ½ inches, by stitching the yellow print square. Stitch along the shorter ends linking it to your dual borders. (Strip #1) Moving along, at the edges along the top and bottom, stitch the narrow pieces, stitching along the middle. You are now ready to complete your project.
posted by neptunus @ 7:45 PM   0 comments
Assembling the Crown of your Crafty Quilt How to Assemble your Crown

You have created flowers, basket, handles, etc, so now it’s time to assemble your crafty quilt. Let’s get started.

How to Assemble:
You are assembling the crown of your quilt at this point. If you haven’t started your craft project to create the Spring Basket, leave this work to those who are at the crown. To collect your crown use your threads that counterpart and begin blind stitching across your fabric, sewing your flower onto the fabric, as well as two of your foliages. Sew to the center bloom as well, and stitch en route for the wrong side (left) of your created 3-block baskets. Stitch to the right and finish your final blocks. (3)

At the lower region of your basket, affix your blooms so that they join with the handles. Now, snip your lighter shades of filaments/strands, and shades of pink (6) silkworm fibers (Floss), cutting lengthwise so that it is corresponding with the measurements lengthwise of your arm. You want to create strands (3) on each section of fiber. Divide and use needle and thread (large eye needle) along with the length of your three filaments and stitch so that it forms a circle. You are making your granny knots, to create the French version that will stretch about your center flower and the dark flowers you have created.

Again, trim your darker shades of six-pink, filaments, and silkworm fibers, cutting it along the length so that it is equivalent to your arm span. Generate 3-filaments on each section of your fibers. Partition and make use of hand used needle and filament, stitching the length the three threads. Stitch until it shapes a loop. Starting at the shades of green, snip the narrow sash pieces and cut the pieces into 1 ½ x 10 ½ inches. You are making your D-block. Snip another three narrow pieces until you achieve measured parts at 1 ½ x 28 ½ inches. You will use these parts to make your E-block. Alternatively, snip your D-block, cutting three from your pattern and form 4-D narrow pieces. You want your ducks in a row. (I.e. Blocks) Use only 2-blocks to form a row at this time and begin stitching the blocks forming 3-E narrow pieces. This is the middle region of your coverlet, or quilt. Use the variety of floral prints and snip the inside borders of your narrow pieces. Snip at least two narrow parts at 1 x 23 ½ inches. Use the parts to create the F-borders at the side. Now, snip another one x 29 ½-inch narrow pieces to create G-borders at the lower and upper region of your quilt.

Continuing, sew the border sides to the center of your coverlet. Continue to sew the drop and greater borders. Begin at the floral region, i.e. the print textile press with your iron. DO NOT IRON rather gently press? Lift; relocate, etc.

Now, you are ready to craft your binds for your quilt. Use your floral materials and sew the greater, drop, and sides of your borders. Now fill it in with the center of your quilt patterns.

You have done a great job, so now it is time to finish your work. Use your backing cloth, batting, and crown of your coverlet and coat. To prepare your coverlet, pin baste to layer, followed by hand sewing or machine sewing your quilt. Use your machine at the crown to sew the untreated edges. If you have extra batting, cut it. Do the same for backing cloth. Now bind and snip your satin, yellow ribbon to form your bow. Cut six even parts. Finish by tying your ribbon, forming a bow and stitch by hand your bows, one for each side of your handles on your basket.
posted by neptunus @ 7:44 PM   0 comments

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